Chinese traditional patterns in contemporary vestimentary fashion in China

Tsyuian' Yue Postgraduate student; Department of Theory and History of Culture and Art; Ural Federal University named after the first President of Russia B. N. Yeltsin 70 Komsomolskaya str., Yekaterinburg, Sverdlovsk region, 620078, Russia 1565698722@qq.com

Traditional Chinese patterns are one of the components of Chinese traditional culture. Ancient societies have long had patterns and motifs that are very well represented in various jewelry, clothing, and other objects. And these patterns not only have aesthetic value, but also have deep symbolic and historical significance.

In this regard, the relevance of this study is to explore the origin and understanding of Chinese traditional patterns and their use in modern Chinese fashion.

The purpose of this work is to understand the meaning of Chinese traditional patterns and their application, an innovation in modern Chinese Western fashion. In this paper, we will look at the evolution of Chinese traditional patterns and their features in different periods of Ancient China, classify Chinese traditional patterns, and establish the use of Chinese traditional patterns in modern Chinese Western fashion.

The novelty of this work lies in the consideration of the reasons for the preservation and innovations of Chinese traditional patterns in modern Chinese Western fashion, considering how Chinese designers combine these patterns with modern fashion aesthetics.

To study Chinese traditional patterns, the following research methods are used in the article: descriptive method, historical method, comparative method and typological method.

The practical significance of the research lies in understanding the cultural implications and symbolism of traditional Chinese patterns in order to carefully preserve and transmit the national culture.

First, we will look at the features of patterns in various dynasties. Traditional Chinese patterns were very widely represented in ancient clothing, and the patterns passed down from generation to generation have become classics of the time and are an important part of traditional Chinese culture, as well as a symbol of China's history and civilization. Traditional patterns in history have certain style changes in different dynasties. Most of the patterns before the Qin Dynasty (221-207 BC) are mysterious, and the animal facial expressions on tattoos are disgusting. The patterns of the Qin and Han dynasties (202 BC-220 AD) became relaxed and atmospheric because the Qin Dynasty was the first great united dynasty in Chinese history. It was from this time on that the dragon pattern became a symbol of imperial power. Since the Sui (581-618) and Tang (618-907) dynasties were economically and culturally prosperous, and the opening of the Silk Road facilitated the exchange and fusion of Chinese and foreign culture, therefore, the patterns of the Sui and Tang dynasties were elegant. In addition, Buddhism was widespread in the country, which also influenced the culture of traditional patterns. Song society promoted frugality and elegance, so Song patterns (960-1279) were usually simple and uncomplicated. In terms of meaning, we can say that the patterns of the Song Dynasty approached the common people. Due to the frequent exchange of experience between China and foreign countries, the patterns of the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1636-1912) dynasties became elegant and luxurious. In different historical epochs, certain changes occur, reflecting the social characteristics of that time ^{[1, P. 79]}. Thus, traditional Chinese patterns in different historical dynasties had features of diverse styles that not only reflect the aesthetic orientation and cultural background of the society of that time, but also become important symbols of the history and civilization of China. The mysterious secrecy of the Qin Dynasty, the calm atmosphere of the Han Dynasty, the splendor of the Sui and Tang dynasties, the simplicity and grace of the Song Dynasty, as well as the elegance and splendor of the Ming and Qing dynasties – the patterns of each period bear a deep imprint of that era. These changes reflect not only economic and cultural development and exchange, but also changes in social customs and psychology of people. Therefore, traditional Chinese patterns are the witnesses of history, bearing a rich cultural connotation and the spirit of the times.

Throughout history, the development of traditional patterns has undergone some changes in terms of content. In the beginning, the patterns usually depicted animals, some ferocious beasts or auspicious birds, and other patterns. Later, with the change of dynasties and the development of society, animal patterns were replaced by plant patterns, and people could feel the richness and colorfulness of plant patterns. Before the Qin Dynasty, the patterns usually depicted elephants, tigers, pythons, and other animals. During the Qin and Han dynasties, the patterns changed under the influence of culture, although there were still some animal patterns, all of them depicting docile animals such as goats, horses, cows, etc. Then the development of the Silk Road led to the expansion of cultural exchanges between China and foreign countries, and the local Chinese culture was influenced by Western culture, patterns were changed from animal patterns to plant patterns. People became interested in flowers, and peonies, plum blossoms, and so on became the main subjects in the patterns ^{[1, p. 80]}. Thus, the development of traditional Chinese patterns in terms of content has undergone a noticeable transformation from animal patterns to plant patterns. Initially, the main component elements of the patterns were animals, ferocious beasts and auspicious birds, reflecting the worship of the ancient society for the power of nature and the desire for favorable symbols. However, with the change of dynasties and the development of society, animal patterns were gradually replaced by plant patterns – this process not only reflects the evolution of cultural aesthetics, but also testifies to the influence of Chinese and foreign cultural exchange. Later, with the prosperity of the Silk Road and the deepening of cultural exchanges between China and foreign countries, floral patterns, especially floral ones such as peonies and plum blossoms, gradually became mainstream, which not only demonstrated the love of natural beauty, but also embodied the power of cultural integration and innovation. The changes in the content of traditional Chinese patterns are the result of the zeitgeist, social style, and cultural exchanges.

We have noticed that Chinese traditional patterns are preserved in modern Chinese vestibular fashion. Chinese modern designers combine these traditional patterns with modern aesthetics. Therefore, we classify traditional Chinese patterns and consider their use in modern Chinese Western fashion.

The first group is animal patterns. There are many types of animals, such as the mysterious dragon and phoenix, the mythical unicorn, the majestic lion, etc. Each type of animal is a rich source of inspiration for fashion design due to its unique shape and symbolism. The dragon is a magical animal in ancient Chinese legends, considered the totem of the Chinese nation. The dragon pattern is a traditional pattern that has the longest duration, the widest distribution and the greatest influence in ancient China. It symbolizes power, might and luck, dragon motifs are widely used in royal clothing in ancient China ^{[2, p. 67]}. Since the Qin Dynasty, the dragon pattern has been a symbol of imperial power. The phoenix is a legendary firebird symbolizing auspiciousness and beauty. Phoenix patterns are often used in the clothing of noble women such as the Empress and the emperor's daughter, symbolizing nobility, purity and love. The unicorn is a mythical beast in ancient China, symbolizing luck and tranquility. The unicorn pattern is often used in official costumes and palace decorations, symbolizing national prosperity and peace, as well as good weather ^{[3, p. 165]}. The lion is a precious beast that drives away evil spirits. The lion is not native to China, but was introduced to China during the cultural exchange between East and West after the opening of the Silk Road during the Han Dynasty. The lion also occupies an important place in Buddhist culture, for example, as the mount of Manjushri Bodhisattva, which symbolizes the protection of the Dharma and is sacred and majestic. The lion also symbolizes bravery, greatness and strength ^{[3, p. 166]}. Thus, animal patterns play an important role in traditional Chinese patterns, and they are not only a source of design inspiration due to their unique shapes, but also popular due to their inherent symbolism. These animal patterns not only enriched the connotation of traditional Chinese patterns, but also deeply reflected the cultural values, aesthetic orientation, and desire for a better life of ancient Chinese society.

In modern fashion design, designers use abstraction, exaggeration, deformation, and other techniques to incorporate these animal patterns into clothing patterns, styles, fabrics, and even accessories, creating pieces that are both modern and historical. For example, at China Fashion Week 2019, The Legend of Gaia presented a design with a dragon pattern, which also embodied the perfect fusion of traditional dragon style and modern aesthetics. Abstract dragon pattern with fashionable laser fabric, which preserves the traditional features of the dragon pattern without being intrusive (Fig.1) ^[4]. The work of designer Zhang Zichen "A Hundred Birds to the Phoenix" combines traditional craftsmanship and modern fashion design, creating futuristic outfits. This design not only preserves the traditional beauty of the phoenix pattern, but also incorporates modern aesthetic trends (Fig. 2) ^[5].

Fig.1 The design of the "Legend of Gaia" in 2019 Fig. 2 Zhang Zichen's design with a phoenix pattern

The second group of patterns in terms of their popularity is floral ornaments. Plant patterns arose as a result of humanity's observation and worship of the natural world. Already in ancient civilizations such as Egypt, Greece, India and China, floral patterns were widely used in fabrics, frescoes and sculptures. The appearance of plant patterns is a direct reflection of humanity's deep observation and reverence for the natural world. Since ancient times, humans have been closely connected with the natural world, and plants, as an important part of the natural world, have naturally become an important source of inspiration for artistic creation due to their diverse and vibrant forms. These patterns are not only decorative, but also carry a rich symbolic meaning. Next, we will look at the patterns of peony, lotus, plum blossom, changzhi and bamboo. The peony pattern really became popular during the Tang Dynasty. Since the Tang Dynasty, peonies have been popularly used and are considered a flower symbolizing family happiness and national prosperity. And Olev costumes and court decorations. The lotus is a sacred flower in Buddhism, symbolizing purity and transcendence. In ancient China, the lotus pattern was often used in Buddhist costumes and temple decorations, symbolizing the purity of Buddha's nature and wisdom ^{[6, p. 2]}. The plum blossom pattern was widely popular among writers and ordinary people during the Song Dynasty. Plum blossom is the first of the ten famous flowers in the Chinese tradition, symbolizing perseverance and purity. During the reign of the Song Dynasty, with the flourishing of scientific culture and the popularity of paintings with birds and flowers, floral patterns gradually became elegant and simple, and the plum blossom, as a flower with the character of a gentleman, more corresponded to the aesthetics of Song writers, and therefore became one of the main floral patterns of the Song Dynasty ^{[6, p. 3]}. The changzhi pattern is an ancient pattern dating back to the Han Dynasty, which reached its heyday during the Ming Dynasty. Such a pattern in the form of intertwining branches of plants and flowers. In the chanzhi pattern, flowers or vines are used as a material to create a continuous pattern. It symbolizes good wishes for endless life and long generations ^{[7, p. 144]}. Back in the Song Dynasty, bamboo pattern appeared as a decorative pattern on ceramics, but at that time it only appeared sporadically, not occupying a large decorative area. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, bamboo pattern became a common decorative pattern on ceramics, gold and stone products, and its noble and sublime quality for literati, the metaphor of literati turned into a symbol of the spiritual strength of literati, and became the main pattern in ceramic painting. In addition, bamboo grows from trunk to trunk, which indicates a high rise and prosperity in the quarry ^{[6, p. 3]}. Thus, as a product of human observation and worship of the natural world, plant patterns have long been widely used in various works of art in ancient civilizations such as Egypt, Greece, India and China, where they not only demonstrated man's deep observation and reverence for the natural world, but also became an important source of inspiration for artistic creation. In China, floral patterns such as peony, lotus, plum blossom, changzhi, and bamboo are rich in symbolism and cultural overtones. They are an important and integral part of traditional Chinese culture.

Since ancient times, floral patterns with their rich shapes, vibrant lines and deep cultural overtones have been an important element in human artistic creation. From ancient fabrics to modern fashion, floral patterns have never disappeared from the fashion stage, but rather gained new vitality through constant development and innovation. For example, the young Chinese designer Ding Fei showed her design with a peony pattern at the Chinese International Fashion Week in 2023 (Fig. 3) ^[8]. In the design of the Chinese modern designer Li Shanshan in 2023, the chanzhi pattern was used and the colors are taken from traditional blue-and–white porcelain - blue and white (Fig. 4) ^[9]. In 2022, Chinese designer Chen Tsaini used a bamboo pattern in the design (Fig. 5) ^[10]. It can be seen from these modern designs that they use traditional floral patterns and also combine them with modern Western styles and materials.

3, 4, 5 Designs with a peony pattern, with a chanzhi pattern, with a bamboo pattern

In the vast world of design, geometric patterns, with their simplicity, order, and tension, have become a visual language that transcends time and culture. From the relics of ancient civilizations to modern city streets, geometric patterns are found everywhere, and their unique shapes and compositions speak to humanity's desire for beauty and its understanding. The third group is geometric patterns. This group has a water wave pattern, a spiral pattern, and a pattern with paired squares. The water wave pattern is also known as the seawater pattern, which symbolizes virtue and tolerance of the sea. The water wave pattern is often used in robes with a dragon, robes with a python and other cuffs and hems of clothing, and with a dragon pattern, python pattern, etc. It is a status symbol (Fig. 6) ^[13]. A spiral pattern is a square or rounded circular pattern consisting of horizontal and vertical short lines folded around. Due to its repeating loop, the characteristics of the spiral-shaped pattern mean constant wealth and prosperity ^{[11, p. 122]}. Thus, being an important element in the world of design, geometric pattern with its simplicity, order and tension transcends the boundaries of time and culture and has become a universal visual language. These geometric patterns not only enrich the expressiveness of the design, but also deeply reflect the human understanding and desire for beauty, which is an important part of design.

Fig. 6 Different types of water wave patterns in Chinese culture

The pattern with conjugated squares consists of two rhombic corners pressed against each other, and its symmetrical and harmonious composition symbolizes concentricity and luck ^{[12, pp. 50-52]}. The history of the mating square pattern dates back to the Han Dynasty, but at that time it did not dominate decorative applications, but was replaced by a realistic style of animal patterns. The pattern with paired squares became popular during the Tang and Song dynasties, and reached its heyday during the Ming and Qing dynasties.

In modern fashion design, geometric patterns have become a magic wand in the hands of designers with their versatile styles and limitless creative potential, giving new life and meaning to clothes. For example, in the work of designer Gao Qilian, the shape of the water wave pattern is first disassembled, broken into parts according to certain rules and methods, and then reassembled into a new shape of the water wave pattern (Fig. 7) ^[13].

Fig. 7 Design with a new shape of the water wave pattern

As a crystallization of human wisdom, allegorical patterns have been widely used in various art forms since ancient times. They are often closely related to mythological, historical and natural themes, and through metaphors and symbols convey people's desire for a better life, their reverence for the power of nature and the exploration of the spiritual world. Such patterns as the auspicious cloud pattern, the double fish pattern, the "Magpie on a plum branch" pattern, the seawater and river cliff pattern, the "Orchid and cinnamon tree are fragrant together" pattern, and the "Pine and Longevity Crane" pattern. The auspicious cloud pattern as a representative of traditional Chinese allegorical patterns, the history of this type of pattern can be traced back to the ancient cloud pattern. The veneration and worship of clouds by ancient people led to the widespread use of cloud patterns in artifacts, clothing, architecture, etc. This pattern symbolizes good luck, peace and prosperity ^{[14, p. 36]}. During the Tang Dynasty, a pattern with two fish was common. The pattern with two fish symbolizes wealth, harmony and a happy environment. Two fish usually swim opposite each other, symbolizing harmonious relationships and interdependence. In Chinese culture, fish is a homonym of the word "余" (remainder), which means "year after year" and "abundance of wealth." Therefore, the pattern with two fish is not only an ornament, but also the embodiment of the desire and prayer of the ancient people for a happy and prosperous life. At the same time, the pattern with two fish symbolizes yin and yang, reproduction and multiplication, implying many children and grandchildren. In Chinese culture, the gentle call of the magpie is often seen as a symbol of good luck and good fortune. The plum blossom, which blooms proudly in the cold, symbolizes the spirit of strength and steadfastness. At the same time, the opening of the plum blossom means the arrival of spring and new beginnings. Therefore, the "Magpie on a plum branch" pattern means the arrival of good luck, joy and luck. The history of the seawater and river cliff pattern dates back to the Song Dynasty, when it began to appear on furniture, porcelain, and other artifacts. However, it was only during the Ming and Qing dynasties that the seawater and river cliff pattern gradually became an important decorative pattern on clothing. During the Ming Dynasty, the seawater and river cliff pattern began to be used as a garment decoration, and during the Qing Dynasty, it reached its apogee, becoming a common auspicious pattern used by Manchu aristocrats and officials, mainly as a decorative pattern on the edges of clothing. The seawater and river cliff pattern consists of mountains, rocks, and tides, demonstrating the reverence and worship of ancient people for nature. At the same time, the "sea" in the pattern represents a vast expanse, symbolizing the unity of the whole country, and the "cliff" – the stability of mountains and rivers, implying the stability of rivers and mountains, as well as the prosperity of the country. Therefore, the pattern with seawater and the cliff of the river is often considered as a symbol of national unity and stability of power. ^{[12, pp. 70-71]}. The "Orchid and cinnamon tree are fragrant together" pattern is one of the popular motifs of the Qing Dynasty. This pattern combines orchids and osmanthus flowers. It symbolizes that talents appear in the offspring from generation to generation. The "Pine and Crane of Longevity" pattern originated from wishing people longevity and good luck. In traditional Chinese culture, both the pine tree and the crane are symbols of longevity. The pine is an evergreen and immortal tree, personifying endurance and longevity, while the crane is considered an immortal bird, signifying longevity and good luck. Therefore, the combination of pine and crane creates a favorable "Pine and crane of longevity" pattern ^{[12, p. 327]}. Thus, allegorical patterns, being a crystallization of human wisdom, have been widely used in various art forms since ancient times, were closely related to myths, history, nature and other themes, and conveyed people's desire for a better life, their reverence for the forces of nature and their understanding of the spiritual world through metaphors and symbols. The patterns with two fish, an auspicious cloud, "A Magpie on a plum branch," with seawater and a river cliff, "An orchid and a cinnamon tree are fragrant together," "A pine tree and a longevity crane" are typical representatives of traditional Chinese allegorical patterns. These patterns are not only of high artistic value, but also contain deep cultural overtones and symbols.

In modern fashion design, allegorical patterns have gained a new lease of life. Through innovative techniques, designers combine these traditional patterns with modern aesthetics, creating clothes that not only preserve cultural heritage, but also meet modern aesthetic trends. He even sends his good wishes and blessings. For example, Chinese designer Lawrence Xu created a product with a favorable cloud pattern this spring (Fig. 8, 9) ^{[15, 16]}. In 2021, Guo Pei showed a design on the cascading hem of a dress in the form of a frill of this design, an element of blue-white porcelain and a pattern with sea water and a river cliff are used (Fig. 10) ^[17]. These two designs use a favorable cloud pattern, and the modern cut gives the designs a fashionable feel.

Fig. 8 Different types of favorable cloud patterns Fig. 9 Favorable cloud design

Fig. 10 Design with seawater and river cliff

Thus, traditional Chinese patterns in design are an important part of Chinese traditional culture. They are not only decorative, but also carry a rich cultural connotation and symbolism. The use of these patterns in Chinese modern vestibular fashion is very popular. Chinese designers will innovate these traditional Chinese patterns and combine them with modern fashion to create a new style of clothing – Chinese style. This step not only preserves and promotes Chinese culture, but also promotes cultural exchange. It is also the epitome of cultural globalization.